Natural Coastal Features Printable Version
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Estuaries Saltmarshes Sea cliffs Rocky shores Beaches Lagoons
 
Estuaries

Estuaries are semi-enclosed bodies of water, which have a free connection with the open sea. They differ from other coastal inlets in that sea water is measurably diluted by inputs of freshwater and this, combined with tidal movement, means that salinity is permanently variable. The mixing of two very different water masses gives rise to complex sedimentological and biological processes and patterns.

Estuaries come in all shapes and sizes and are called many different names, e.g. bays, lagoons, harbours, inlets or sounds, and the upper part of rias. An estuary is a body of water formed where freshwater from the rivers and streams flows into the ocean, thus mixing with seawater. They are places of transition from land to the sea and from freshwater to saltwater. Estuaries are influenced by the tide and can be microtidal (small tidal range), mesotidal (moderate tidal range) or macrotidal (large tidal range). They are complex ecosystems, interlinking the terrestrial environment with the aquatic environment. Estuaries act as nature's water treatment facilities, flood control areas, buffers against storm damage, and protectors against coastline erosion.

Four main types of estuary can be identified:
  1. Coastal plain estuaries
    • These occur where pre_existing valleys were flooded at the end of the last glaciation.
    • They are less than 30 m deep.
    • Extensive mudflats and saltings often occur.
  2. Bar-built estuaries
    • There is a sediment bar across their mouths.
    • They are partially drowned river valleys.
    • They are associated with depositional coasts.
    • They are only a few metres deep.
  3. Complex estuaries
    • These river estuaries are formed by a variety of physical influences, including glaciation, river-erosion, sea-level change and geological constraints from hard rock outcrops.
    • Few exist.
  4. Ria estuaries
    • These are drowned non-glaciated river valleys.
    • The estuarine part is restricted to the upper reaches.
    • The predominant substrate is mostly bedrock.
    • Outer parts are little diluted by freshwater and are defined as shallow inlets or bays e.g. Bantry Bay in Co. Cork and Kenmare in Co. Kerry.
    • Away from the open sea there are usually soft sediments.
Killary Harbour Fjord
Killary Harbour, Ireland's only fjord is a complex estuary formed by glacial erosion.
Ireland has 32 major coastal bays and inlets of which five are important estuarine areas: Foyle, Boyne, Lee, Barrow and Shannon. The Shannon Estuary, for example, bordered by Co. Limerick, Co. Kerry and Co. Clare, extends over 100km of the western coastline. The soft muds of the eastern Shannon Estuary and the saltmarshes of the Fergus Estuary are designated Ramsar sites, Natural Heritage Areas and Wildfowl Sanctuaries.


Saltmarshes

Saltmarshes are flat, poorly drained areas of land in intertidal regions subject to periodic flooding by tides. They are typically found between the upper limits of the the very lowest (neap) and very highest (spring) tides in protected bays, estuaries, and other sections of sheltered low energy coastal environments with medium or large tidal ranges (>3m) where sediment becomes deposited on intertidal mudflats under slack water conditions. Salt marshes may also develop on coastal peat deposits. These are mainly confined to the west coast of Ireland and often occur in areas where blanket bog has been encroached by the sea as a result of rising sea levels over long periods of time, frequently combined with the more recent cutting of peat.

Branching network (Cork Harbour area) Usually the upper parts of the marsh are more elevated so they are only totally inundated at the highest tides. The lower zones are inundated more frequently, especially where channels dissect the marsh. Tidal saltmarshes in temperate regions are characterized by the presence of a branching network of tidal creeks. Saltmarsh creeks are often extensions of systems that occur on the intertidal mud and sand flats that exist seaward of the marsh and while most terminate on the marsh, some may extend beyond the landward margin. These networks provide a pathway for the flow of water, sediments and nutrients into and out of the salt marsh. The height and reach of the tide is an important factor controlling the channeling, branching network and water movement in marshes and tidal creeks.

Mud banks are less stable than saltmarshes as a result of the higher levels of physical disturbance arising from the displacement of sediment and erosion by tides. Mud flats and vegetated marsh areas are separated from one another around the mean high water neap.

Saltmarshes maintain a biologically active surface with microbial activity due to the presence of grasses adapted to life in saltwater environments (macrophytes). The vegetation of salt marshes varies considerably depending on the degree of submersion by the sea, the salinity of the substratum or of the water (estuarine or lagoonal salt marshes), and on the intensity of grazing by livestock. These grasses act as a sediment trap for the fine material that enters salt marshes on flooding tides. Anaerobic conditions can develop as a result of the decomposition of organic matter. The lower salt marsh is subject to more prolonged submersion by seawater and is more strongly saline than upper salt marsh. As a result it is characterised by a predominance of salt-tolerant plants (halophytes). Common saltmarsh-grass (Puccinellia maritima) usually dominates the seaward edge of the salt marsh and often forms a short turf with glassworts (Salicornia spp.). The upper salt marsh is subject to less frequent and less prolonged inundation by the sea and, as a result, is not as saline in character as lower salt marsh. The vegetation is usually rushes (particularly Juncus maritimus and J. gerardii) and Red Fescue (Festuca rubra).

Sea cliffs

Sea Cliffs and rocky coasts occur in both high and low relief areas where the underlying geological structures are relatively resistant to the erosive forces of the sea, rain and wind. They are formed as waves undercut a steep shoreline slope. Along a submerging, steep, rocky coastline irregularities in the shoreline will cause waves to refract and focus at shoreline promontories or headlands. They are mainly found along the Atlantic coast. In areas of high relief the landscape is often characterised by steep cliffs, rocky outcrops and deep, usually clear offshore marine waters with small embayments. Although more mobile sedimentary systems (such as pocket beaches, dunes and shingle shores) may be present they are seldom extensive.

Cliffs of Moher
The Cliffs of Moher, Co. Clare, made of sedimentary rock, stand almost 200 m high.
The retreat of cliffed coasts takes place mainly during storms, and is achieved largely by wave action: the hydraulic pressure of impact and withdrawal, and the abrasive action of water laden with rock fragments hurled repeatedly at the cliff base. After a storm, the backshore is littered with debris eroded from the cliff. Agitated by wave action, this becomes broken down and is either retained as beach material or is carried offshore. The simplest type of cliffed coast is found where marine erosion has attacked the margins of a stable land mass of homogeneous and relatively resistant rocks, removing a wedge of material to leave a steep cliff at the back of a gently-sloping platform, which extends from high tide level to beneath low tide-level. There are many variations of this simple form however, depending on the degree of exposure to wave attack, the effects of subaerial processes of denudation, and the changing land and sea levels.

The platform is often termed a wave-cut or an abrasion platform. More resistant parts of coastal rock formations stick out as headlands, or rock stacks or islands offshore and the weaker rocks are cut back into coves and bays. Solid and massive formations are generally eroded more slowly than formations that disintegrate easily e.g. friable sandstones or rocks with joints and bedding planes. Weathering and erosion attack these lines of weakness, digging out caves and coves. Natural arches can form where less resistant rock has been eroded from a headland or island. Where the forces produced by the hydraulic action of waves and the compression of trapped air puncture the roof of a cave, water and spray are driven up through blowholes.

Certain types of rock result in characteristic cliff forms. The Giants Causeway in Co. Antrim, for example, has a distinct appearance formed from columnar basalts. In limestone areas, the sea may penetrate and widen fissures that originated as underground solution passages. On soft clay formations, cliffs are subject to reoccurring slumping, especially after wet weather.


Rocky shores

Rocky shores are subdivided into three main categories on the basis of wave exposure since the degree of wave action on a shore determines, to a large extent, what animal and plant communities are present. On the most exposed shores, the effects of sea spray and wave splash can be far-reaching. Low rocky cliffs (<5 m in height), overhangs, rocky headlands and rock pools are subject to regular wetting by wave splash or sea spray, and terrestrial vascular plant communities do not exceed 50%.

  Rocky shore, Doolin, Co. Clare
Waves breaking over a rocky shore in Doolin, Co. Clare.
Most rocky shores exhibit distinct zonation patterns that relate to the length of time a particular area is emersed, or exposed by the tide. Lichens typically dominate rocks of the extreme upper shore, including the spray zone. Grey lichens (Ramalina spp.) usually occur above yellow lichens (Xanthoria spp.) along the coastal area furthest from the sea. A distinctive band of the black lichen (Verrucaria maura) occurs below these at the bottom of the lichen zone. The width of the lichen zone varies with the degree of exposure, as does the height; both are greatest on the most exposed shores. On sheltered shores the lichen zone is usually greatly reduced. The more exposed rocky shores may support patchy cover of terrestrial vascular plant communities in the spray zone. Typical components of the vegetation include Thrift (Armeria maritima), Sea Aster (Aster tripolium) and the salt-tolerant grass, Red Fescue (Festuca rubra). On sheltered shores, the transition to terrestrial habitats is usually abrupt. Cover of terrestrial vascular plants should not exceed 50% for inclusion in any of the coastal rock categories.


Beaches and sand dunes

Beaches bordering continental areas in temperate climatic regions tend to be formed of pale yellow to brown quartz-rich sands, the most common solid products of weathering and erosion. Pebble or shingle beaches also occur, in which the pebbles are usually derived from some fairly local source such as an adjacent line of cliffs. Changes in sea level during the Pleistocene Ice Age have largely determined the present distribution of beach sediments. Sands of many present-day beaches migrated away from the shelf edge as sea level rose following the last glaciation.

No two beaches are the same, and beach widths can range from a few tens to many hundreds of metres, depending on factors such as slope, tidal range, prevailing winds, sediment type and so on.

Beaches are accumulations of loose sand or pebbles. Much of the energy of waves breaking upon the shore is dissipated in moving sediment, though some is always reflected back out to sea, the proportion depending on the beach slope; beach profiles can change quite rapidly in response to changes in wave energy.

On most beaches, three zones of wave action can generally be identified. As waves approach the shore, they become unstable and break. This is the breaker zone and it can be quite wide. Landward of the breaker zone is the surf zone and this is generated by the breaking waves. Finally there is the swash zone, where smaller waves are pushed up the beach slope, which is alternately covered by the upsurge of water (swash) and the return of water to the sea (backwash). The sloping part of the beach between high and low water is sometimes called the beach face.

Shallow sloping beaches may be characterized by a series of low broad sandy ridges or bars separated by runnels. Sediment movement forms these features. Beaches with moderate to steep slopes and relatively narrow intertidal zones are often characterized by berms, which are flat-topped ridges at the upper limit of wave action.
  Sand Dunes, Fanore, Co. Clare
Sandy beach backed by sand dunes in Fanore, Co. Clare.
Beach sands above the normal high tide level, as well as the sand dunes that form the landward limits of some beaches, are built up by onshore winds transporting fine to medium sands, originally supplied to the beach by waves. Dunes will only develop where winds are favourable and beach sediments fall in the appropriate size range. Sand dunes tend to migrate inland and can travel long distances if wind conditions allow.

Lagoons

The meaning of a “lagoon” varies greatly around the world, as the word is generally used to identify different water bodies, including saline lakes, tidal bays and freshwater ponds. Most definitions are based on their morphology, their environmental conditions, indicator species or a combination of the three. The latter is the case of the European Union’s Habitats Directive and its Interpretation Manual which define lagoons as “expanses of shallow coastal salt water, of varying salinity or water volume, wholly or partially separated from the sea by sand banks or shingle, or less frequently, by rocks (morphology). Salinity may vary from brackish water to hyper salinity depending on rainfall, evaporation and through the addition of fresh seawater from storms, temporary flooding by the sea in winter or tidal exchange (environmental conditions)”.

There are four different types of lagoons in Ireland, which are classified according to their origin and morphology, though they can be further classified depending on their relation with the sea (e.g. inlets and outlets).
  1. Sedimentary Lagoons: the only ones considered real lagoons by the narrowest definitions i.e. enclosed by a barrier of sand or shingle. In Ireland, like the rest of Northwest European lagoons, they usually lack inlets, and the interchange with the sea is by percolation through the barrier.
  2. Rock lagoons: these have barriers composed mainly of rocks. The seawater usually penetrates through fissures in the rock or inlets, although some of the lagoons that fall in this category are shore lagoons, eventually reached by the sea during high spring tides and storms. These inputs of salt water seem to be enough to develop and maintain brackish conditions. These are mainly found in Counties Clare and Galway.
  3. Lough Anillaun, Cleggan, Co. Galway Saline lake lagoons: these are separated from the sea by a strip of land composed of earth or peat, not by a barrier of marine origin. They can be isolated from the sea at low tide (silled lagoons) or remain in permanent contact with it (inlet lagoons). They are concentrated in Counties Galway and Donegal, where wide extensions of coastal blanket bogs and fens can be found.
  4. Artificial lagoons: these are the result of human action and have artificial barriers. These barriers were built for different purposes i.e. to reclaim land from the sea, as coastal defences or to serve as causeways to roads and railroads. Most of them have outlets, which range from simple channels to sluices, with or without pumps. They occur all around the coast, but particularly on the east coast and in Co. Cork.